Questions, answered.

It depends on the job, which is why we quote each property individually instead of posting a price list. Estimates are free.

The main factors are how much surface there is, what it's made of, how heavy the growth or staining is and how easy it is to reach. A single-story wall of siding is a different job from a steep roof. Send us the details and we'll price your property, not an average one.

Nothing. Estimates are free for everyone. If your property is within 30 minutes of us, we come out, look at the job and give you the estimate in person.

If you're farther out, send us photos or a video of what needs cleaning and we can quote you over the phone.

Send the quote form, call us, email us or message us on social media. We reply within 24 hours.

Tell us what you want cleaned and where the property is. If you're within 30 minutes of us, we'll come out and give you an estimate in person. If you'd rather skip the visit, send photos or video and we can quote over the phone. Either way, the estimate is free.

Yes. Send us photos or a video of the areas you want cleaned and we can quote you over the phone.

Wide shots that show the whole surface work better than close-ups of the worst patch. Include each side of the house if it's a house wash, and anything that's hard to reach. A rough idea of the size helps too. The clearer the pictures, the more accurate the quote.

Within 24 hours. That goes for phone, email and social media.

To get to a price faster, tell us up front which surfaces you want cleaned and send a few photos if you have them. That way our first reply can be an answer instead of a list of questions.

We serve Charlotte, NC, and estimates are free. If you're within 30 minutes of us, we come out, look at the job and give you an estimate in person.

Farther out, it depends on the job, so get in touch anyway. Tell us where the property is and send photos or video. We can quote over the phone, and we'll say up front whether we can travel to you.

We soft wash siding, brick, stucco and roofing, pressure wash concrete, pavers and decking, and clean gutters.

If you're not sure which service a surface needs, tell us what it is and we'll work that out when we quote. If what you need cleaned isn't on that list, ask us. We reply within 24 hours and you'll get a clear yes or no.

It shouldn't. The quote covers the work we agreed on, and that's the work we carry out.

If something on site changes the job, such as an extra surface you'd like added or an area that looked different in the photos, we'll talk to you before we start. You decide whether to go ahead. Nothing is added without your approval.

We settle that with your quote, before you commit to a date. Along with the cost of the job, you'll be told when payment is due and how you can pay.

If the timing or a particular way of paying matters to you, raise it when you ask for a quote. It's easier to arrange before wash day than afterward.

Usually not. Most exterior washing can be done while you're out, as long as we can get to the areas being cleaned and to an outdoor water spigot.

Leave the gates unlocked and keep pets indoors. If you'd like to be there for a walk-around at the start or the end, tell us when you book.

Tell us you want to go ahead, by phone, email or social media, and we'll agree on a date.

Before wash day we'll confirm what's being washed and anything you need to do to get ready, so everything is clear before we arrive.

It depends on the size of the job. A single surface such as a patio or a set of gutters is a much shorter visit than a full house wash with the roof included.

Size, height, how heavy the growth is and how many services you've booked all add time. We'll tell you how long to expect when we quote, so you can plan around it.

Light rain rarely stops a wash. The surfaces are getting wet anyway, and an overcast day helps keep the cleaning mix from drying before it has done its work.

Heavy rain, strong wind and lightning are a different matter. If the weather would hurt the result or make the job unsafe, we'll contact you and move it to another day.

Close every window and door, and move cars away from the areas being washed.

Clear what you can from the work area, including patio furniture, grills, doormats, potted plants and anything hanging on the walls. Cushions and outdoor rugs matter most, because the cleaning mix can mark fabric. Keep pets and children inside while we're working. Make sure the gates are unlocked and the outdoor water is on. If something is too heavy to move, tell us beforehand so we can plan around it.

We use your water. We connect to an outdoor spigot, so it needs to be turned on and working on wash day.

We don't need your electricity. Our equipment runs on its own power. If your outside water is shut off or you're on a well with limited supply, tell us when you ask for a quote.

We arrive, take a walk around the property and check the surfaces and anything delicate nearby before any washing begins.

Then we set up, wash the areas in your quote and rinse everything down. Siding, brick, stucco and roofing are treated with a cleaning mix followed by a low-pressure rinse. Concrete, pavers and decking are pressure washed. We finish with a final walk-around to check that nothing was missed.

Soft washing is a low-pressure way to clean the outside of a house. We spray chemicals that break down organic growth and build-up, then rinse the chemicals and the dirt off with a low-pressure sprayer. The chemistry does the work, so the surface is never subjected to high pressure.

We use it on siding, brick, stucco and roofing.

Pressure washing cleans with force and soft washing cleans with chemicals. A pressure washer uses a concentrated stream of water to lift dirt from surfaces that can withstand it. Soft washing uses chemicals to break down mold, mildew, algae, and any other organic growth, then low-pressure water rinses it away.

We soft wash siding, brick, stucco and roofing because high pressure can damage them, and we pressure wash concrete, pavers and decking. You don't need to figure out which one your house needs. We'll tell you when we quote.

Because we don't use high pressure on siding. High pressure is the usual cause of damage in a house wash, so we soft wash instead. The chemicals break down the growth and a low-pressure rinse removes it.

We look at your siding before we quote, in person or from your photos, so loose or damaged sections get flagged before we start. If you're not happy with the result, we come back and make it right.

Because high pressure can damage both. On siding it can drive water up behind the panels and leave permanent wand marks. On a shingle roof it strips off the granules that protect the shingles, which shortens the life of the roof.

High pressure also removes only the top layer of the growth. Soft washing kills it, so the surface comes out cleaner and stays clean longer than it would after a high-pressure rinse. We keep pressure washing for concrete, pavers and decking, with the pressure matched to each one.

It's living growth, mostly algae and mildew, with moss and lichen appearing on surfaces that stay damp. The green film on siding is usually algae. Black or gray spotting is usually mildew feeding on dirt and moisture.

It tends to start on the shaded side of the house, where walls dry slowly and trees or shrubs sit close. Because it's alive, rinsing with water only removes what you can see. The chemicals we spray break it down instead of only loosening it.

Those streaks are almost always algae, not dirt or worn-out shingles. It's an airborne algae that lands on the roof and feeds on the limestone filler in asphalt shingles. The dark color is a protective coating it builds as it spreads, and rain carries it down the roof in streaks.

It usually shows up first on the side of the roof that gets the least sun. A soft wash kills it without the pressure that would strip granules off the shingles.

Some of it only looks bad and some of it does real harm. Algae on siding and black streaks on a roof are mostly cosmetic, though they keep the surface damp, and paint tends to fail sooner where it stays wet.

Moss is the one to take seriously. On a roof it holds water against the shingles and lifts their edges, which gives rain a way in. On concrete and decking, algae turns the surface slick when wet, so there it's a slipping hazard as well as an eyesore.

Walls usually look clean by the time we've finished rinsing. The growth starts breaking down soon after the chemicals go on, and the rinse carries it away.

Roofs can take longer. Black streaks usually fade first. Thick moss and lichen die, then let go gradually as rain and wind work on them, which can take weeks or longer. We don't force them off with pressure, because that would take the shingle surface with them.

Yes, which is why we soft wash them instead of pressure washing them. A pressure washer can erode mortar joints and strip the hard face off older brick. On stucco it can pit the finish and drive water into the wall.

Tell us about two things when you ask for a quote. Stucco cracks matter because water that gets in tends to stay in. White powdery deposits and rust marks on brick are mineral stains. A soft wash targets organic growth and often won't remove them.

That chalky film is usually oxidation, and a soft wash isn't meant to remove it. It's the surface of vinyl or painted siding breaking down after years of sun. Rub a finger across it. If a chalky powder comes off on your fingertip, that's oxidation.

A soft wash still takes off the algae and dirt on top. Heavily oxidized siding can look patchy afterward, and high pressure makes that worse by leaving stripes. Mention it when you get in touch and we'll take a look before quoting.

It shouldn't, but the wording of your own warranty is what counts. Roofing manufacturers typically warn against pressure washing shingles, and siding makers tend to recommend a gentle wash over a high-pressure one.

If yours is still active, check the care instructions that came with it or send them over when you ask for a quote. We prefer to review the terms before the job rather than after.

Pressure washing is for the surfaces you walk and drive on: concrete and paver driveways, patios and walkways, and decking. A concentrated stream of water lifts ground-in dirt and algae out of the surface, where a garden hose can't reach.

It's the wrong tool for siding, brick, stucco and roofing. Those get soft washed, where the chemicals do the work and the rinse is low pressure. If you're not sure which one you need, tell us what needs cleaning when you ask for a quote.

It shouldn't when it's done properly. Etching comes from too much pressure through a narrow tip held too close, which strips the smooth top layer and leaves permanent lines.

On flat concrete we use a surface cleaner, a spinning tool that holds the nozzles at a fixed height so the slab gets even treatment. New concrete is softer and marks easily, and a surface that's already flaking can shed loose material, so tell us its age and condition when you ask for a quote.

Mostly because of organic growth. Concrete is porous and holds moisture, so algae and mold settle into the surface and spread. Dirt and tire marks add to the color on top.

Shaded and damp areas darken fastest, which is why the strip along the fence or under the trees usually looks worst. It happens slowly, so most people don't notice until one clean patch shows them the real color.

We can usually lighten them, but we can't promise complete removal. Oil soaks down into the pores of the concrete, and the older the stain, the deeper it sits. Fresh spills respond more readily.

A degreaser applied before washing pulls out what's near the surface, and a faint shadow often stays behind. Show us the stain when we quote and we'll tell you what to expect.

Not by itself. Rust is a mineral stain that bonds into the concrete, so water pressure alone has little effect on it.

It takes a dedicated rust remover that dissolves the stain, and the result depends on what caused it and how long it's been there. Rust treatment isn't on our list of services, so point the stains out when we quote and ask us what's realistic.

Yes, as long as the pressure is a fraction of what concrete gets. Wood is soft, and too much pressure or a tip held too close tears the surface fibers. That leaves a fuzzy finish called furring, or gouge marks along each pass.

We reduce the pressure considerably, use a wide fan tip and work with the grain. A deck cleaner goes on first, so the water mostly has to rinse. Very weathered boards can still raise a little grain.

Yes, but gently. Many composite boards have a thin outer cap, and high pressure can scar it permanently. Manufacturers generally set a pressure limit and call for a fan tip, and some warn that exceeding it can affect the warranty.

We treat composite more like a soft wash job, with a cleaner to loosen the mold and grime and a low-pressure rinse along the boards. If you know the brand, check its care guide and tell us what it says.

Some sand usually comes out. The water that lifts dirt and moss out of the joints takes a little sand with it, which is unavoidable with a thorough cleaning.

We lower the pressure and work at an angle across the joints to keep the loss down. Joints that end up low should be refilled so the pavers stay locked together. Re-sanding isn't on our list of services, so ask us about it when we quote.

Concrete and pavers can be walked on, driven on and parked on once we've finished. They're slippery while wet, so take care until they dry. How long that takes depends on sun and shade.

Wood decks hold water longer. Let the boards dry before furniture and rugs go back, and give them longer still before any staining or sealing. The stain or sealer label will say how dry the wood needs to be.

It's worth considering, and soon after a cleaning is the right time. Sealer needs a clean, dry surface to bond to. Once on, it helps the surface resist stains and can slow the return of algae and moss. Bare wood benefits most, because washing leaves it open to the weather.

Sealing isn't on our list of services, so take this as general advice. Let everything dry fully first and follow the product's instructions. Ask us about it when we quote.

Those stripes are wand marks. A wand cleans a narrow band on each pass, and any change in distance or speed shows up as a line.

If the stripes are only uneven cleaning, an even pass with the right equipment usually blends them out. If the tip was held close enough to cut into the surface, that's etching, and etching is permanent. Send us a photo and we'll tell you which one it looks like.

Because a clogged gutter can no longer do its job, which is carrying roof water away from the house. When leaves and roof grit pack the channel, rain spills over the edge instead. It runs down the fascia and siding and pools against the foundation.

Wet debris is also heavy. Left long enough, it can pull gutters away from the fascia and give rot a damp place to start.

Most homes do well with a cleaning once or twice a year. Homes with trees over the roof usually need it more often. Pines are a common culprit because they shed needles for much of the year rather than all at once.

Go by the trees rather than the calendar. Gutters fill fastest while the trees over them are shedding, so clean after a heavy drop, not before one. If you're not sure where yours stand, send a few photos when you ask for a quote.

The clearest sign is water pouring over the side of the gutter when it rains, instead of coming out of the downspout. Other signs are weeds sprouting from the top, sagging sections, dirty streaks on the siding below and a downspout that only trickles in heavy rain.

If you can see plants growing in the gutters from the ground, a cleaning is overdue.

It depends on the house, so we quote each one rather than guess. The main things are how much gutter there is, how high it sits, how packed it is and whether there are guards to work around.

Estimates are free. Within 30 minutes of us, we come out and quote in person. You can also send photos or video and we'll quote over the phone.

Yes. A clean gutter with a blocked downspout still overflows, so we check every downspout and flush it with water to make sure it runs freely out the bottom.

If the blockage turns out to be in an underground drain line rather than the downspout itself, we'll tell you. That's a different job from gutter cleaning, and it's better to know about it before the next heavy rain.

We bag it and take it with us. It doesn't get left in a pile by the downspout or spread across the lawn. Anything that lands on the patio or in the flower beds while we work gets picked up before we leave.

Yes, in most cases we can do both on the same visit. We clear the gutters first, so anything that runs down the siding gets washed off when we soft wash the house afterward.

Mention both when you ask for a quote and we'll look at them together.

Yes, usually just less often. Guards keep out big leaves, but on many types fine roof grit and seeds still get through, and debris can mat on top of the guard so water sheets straight over it.

We can clean many guarded gutters, but it depends on the type of guard and how it's attached. Tell us what you have or send a photo when you ask for a quote. Installing guards isn't on our list of services.

Often yes. Height and roof pitch matter, and so does the access around the house. Sloping ground or a sunroom built under the gutters changes how we reach them.

That's part of what we look at when we quote. If there's a section we can't reach safely, we'll tell you before any work begins.

We tell you. If we spot a sagging run, a loose hanger, a leaking seam or a section pulling away from the house, we'll point it out and say where it is.

We clean gutters. We don't repair them, so the fix is a job for a gutter installer or a roofer. You'll know about it before the next heavy rain.

You can, if the house is single-story and you're steady on a ladder set on firm, level ground. Wear gloves, scoop the debris out, then run a hose down each downspout to check it drains. Move the ladder often instead of leaning out to reach, and keep it well away from overhead power lines.

The risk is the ladder, not the gutter. If the gutters are higher than you'd like to climb, or you'd rather not spend an afternoon on a ladder, ask us for a quote.

They can if no precautions are taken, so protecting plants is part of the job. We soak plants and grass near the house with plain water before we spray and rinse them again when we're done. Wet leaves and damp soil take up less of the cleaning mix.

Delicate plants can be covered for the short time we're spraying near them. Point out any plants you're particularly concerned about when we quote.

Yes. Keep pets and children indoors or well away from the work area while we're spraying and rinsing. The chemicals are strong enough to kill algae, so nobody should be walking through wet treated areas or drinking from puddles.

Bring in pet bowls and toys beforehand. Keep everyone off the treated areas until they've been rinsed and have dried. We'll tell you when we're finished.

Yes. Close and latch every window and door before we arrive, including upstairs windows and pet doors. Low pressure is far less likely than a pressure washer to push water past seals, but an open or poorly sealed window will still let spray in.

We rinse glass as we go so the cleaning mix doesn't dry on it. A house wash doesn't leave glass polished, so expect some water spots once it dries. Tell us about any windows that already leak.

It's unlikely. Exterior fixtures are built to handle rain, and a low-pressure rinse is much closer to rain than a pressure washer is. We still avoid spraying straight into outlets, light fixtures, doorbell cameras and vents.

Before we come, check that outlet covers close properly and tell us about any fixture that's loose or damaged. If an outdoor outlet trips after a wash, it normally resets once it has dried out. If it keeps tripping, have an electrician look at it.

It ends up on the ground around the house, the same place rain off your walls and roof goes. The rinse water dilutes the cleaning mix before it gets there.

If your downspouts feed a rain barrel or a garden bed, tell us before we start so they can be redirected for the job. The same goes for a fish pond anywhere near the house.

We come back and make it right. That's our satisfaction guarantee.

If you notice something we missed, or an area that didn't come out the way it should, tell us. We stand behind every job.

On soft-washed surfaces, longer than a rinse with plain water. Soft washing kills the growth instead of removing only the visible layer, and growth that has been killed takes longer to come back.

How much longer depends on the property. Shade, overhanging trees and moisture all speed regrowth, so a shaded wall will turn green again sooner than one in full sun. Any single number would be a guess, so we don't give one.

When the growth starts coming back, not by the calendar. Green film on siding, dark streaks on a roof and slippery patches on concrete or decking are the signs.

Homes in open sun with few trees can go longer between washes. Shaded, tree-lined or damp properties need attention sooner. Gutters are the exception. They fill on the trees' schedule, so keep an eye on them and have them cleared before they overflow.

No. Washing removes what is sitting on a surface, such as dirt, algae, mildew and built-up grime. It can't undo damage to the surface itself. Peeling paint will keep peeling, and rinsing can lift loose flakes.

Rust, deep-set oil, old paint spills and stains that have soaked into concrete or wood for years may only lighten, or not change at all. If we look at a mark and expect it to stay, we'll say so when we quote, so you know what to expect before we start.

Cut down on shade and moisture, because those are what bring the growth back.

Keep branches and shrubs trimmed back from walls and the roof so air and sun can reach them. Keep gutters clear so water isn't spilling down the siding. Point sprinklers away from the house, and sweep leaves off decking and concrete before they sit and stain. A hose-down now and then clears loose dirt, though it won't stop algae.